Waves are disturbances in the ocean that transmit energy caused by wind, land, and tide. Wind is a common cause of surfable waves. The greater amount of wind present, the bigger the waves becomes. As wave energy moves closer to shore, it touches the bottom of the ocean, Tide is generated from the moon's gravitational pull on the earth.
The water doesn't travel, but the energy does. Water waves are trichoidal curves.
A breaking wave is when there is a huge amplitude (height of the wave) that reaches a point where it "breaks" and disperses a large amount of kinetic energy. These breaking waves are what surfers look for. There are four different types of breaking waves, depending on the size: longboard wave, fun wave, tube wave, and tow in wave. Long board waves have a height (amplitude) of 4.5 feet with a speed of 10 mph-16 km/hr. Fun waves have a height of 15 feet and have a speed of 18 mph. Tube waves have a height of 24 feet with a speed of 22 mph to 35 km/hr. Lastly, tow-in waves have a height of 65 ft and range from 35 mph to 56 km/hr.
The water doesn't travel, but the energy does. Water waves are trichoidal curves.
A breaking wave is when there is a huge amplitude (height of the wave) that reaches a point where it "breaks" and disperses a large amount of kinetic energy. These breaking waves are what surfers look for. There are four different types of breaking waves, depending on the size: longboard wave, fun wave, tube wave, and tow in wave. Long board waves have a height (amplitude) of 4.5 feet with a speed of 10 mph-16 km/hr. Fun waves have a height of 15 feet and have a speed of 18 mph. Tube waves have a height of 24 feet with a speed of 22 mph to 35 km/hr. Lastly, tow-in waves have a height of 65 ft and range from 35 mph to 56 km/hr.