Knowing when to paddle out is a skill you will have to learn, When you paddle out, you must match the speed of the wave. Because of Newton's law of motion, when you paddle, you are paddling backwards so, the waves will cause you to accelerate forward.
When you stand on the board, you are shifting your center of mass which allows the board to change directions. In the case of the image on the right, when the surfer shifts his weight to the tail of the board, the board moves upward till the buoyant force and gravity are centered. When he moves to the right, the tail pushes against the water and stops the surfer.
The wave will cause you and your board to slope at an angle, Gravity will remain at a downward force, buoyancy will also remain as a upward force, and new hydrodynamic forces will be introduced, These hydrodynamic forces consist of lift and drag which help with the interaction of your board with the water and the shape of your board affects these forces greatly. To change the angle of your board while accelerating is shifting your center of mass. For example, shifting your weight to the back of the board will cause the tip of your surfboard to lift out of the water.
To turn, you would bend your legs and keep your hands out and while you are in the midst of a turn, you straighten your legs and excel forwards. Your surfboard will have a greater force of gravity on the water, and this helps with turning faster.
When you stand on the board, you are shifting your center of mass which allows the board to change directions. In the case of the image on the right, when the surfer shifts his weight to the tail of the board, the board moves upward till the buoyant force and gravity are centered. When he moves to the right, the tail pushes against the water and stops the surfer.
The wave will cause you and your board to slope at an angle, Gravity will remain at a downward force, buoyancy will also remain as a upward force, and new hydrodynamic forces will be introduced, These hydrodynamic forces consist of lift and drag which help with the interaction of your board with the water and the shape of your board affects these forces greatly. To change the angle of your board while accelerating is shifting your center of mass. For example, shifting your weight to the back of the board will cause the tip of your surfboard to lift out of the water.
To turn, you would bend your legs and keep your hands out and while you are in the midst of a turn, you straighten your legs and excel forwards. Your surfboard will have a greater force of gravity on the water, and this helps with turning faster.
