Balance is key to surfing, involving gravity, buoyancy, torque, and center or mass. When you are laying down in the water on your surfboard, two forces act upon you: buoyancy and gravity, Buoyancy is an upward hydro static force from the water below. Gravity is a downward force which acts upon our center of mass and helps keep balance while you are on your surfboard. Due to Newtons third law that the summation of all forces is force multiplied by acceleration, in our case, the sum of the forces acting is zero since we are not accelerating.
To learn how physics applies to paddling out and catching waves, let's surf to the next page!
To learn how physics applies to paddling out and catching waves, let's surf to the next page!