Physics Of Rock Climbing
Anchors

When You make it to the top of a climb you
often have to repel back down to where you left all your
gear. This is accomplished by building a anchor at the top
of the wall that can be used to repel down safely.
The anchor consists of two anchor points with some style of webbing or rope connecting them down the the climber. However as the angle tween the climber and each of the anchor points increases the force on the cord and anchor goes up and it is more likely to fail.
The anchor consists of two anchor points with some style of webbing or rope connecting them down the the climber. However as the angle tween the climber and each of the anchor points increases the force on the cord and anchor goes up and it is more likely to fail.

As seen in the picture above as the angle
between the anchor point increases the force they feel
goes up even for the same climber mass. This is because
the anchor must support the climber in the Y direction so
the force on the anchor is F / cos(angle). This means that
as the angle between the anchor points is small, the force
on the anchor is close to the force from the climber. As
the angle increases cos(angle) becomes smaller so F on the
anchor gets larger and are more likely to fail.
Because of this climbers try and keep the angle between their anchor points as small as possible as shown in this sliding-x anchor below.

Because of this climbers try and keep the angle between their anchor points as small as possible as shown in this sliding-x anchor below.
