Friction and Forces
Friction and Normal Force:
Climbers make for unique physicists.
We love
friction. And it's for this simple (scientific) reason:
"When two independent solids are in contact relative
slipping motion is resisted by friction. Friction
can prevent slip and resists any slip which does occur."
Straight from the "Introduction to Statics and Dynamics"
by Andy Ruina and Rudra Pratap.
Friction is the result of
force. Specifically, normal force. Normal force is
the component of force perpendicular to the surface of
contact. Refer to the image below for a visualization of
this concept. All information thus far is courtesy of
Ruina and Pratap, and will continue to be so for awhile
(I'll notify you otherwise).
Look at the image below. The
force Fn is
the normal force. Notice that this is perpendicular to the
surface the block is resting on. In this case, the normal
force is opposing gravity, the arrow pointing downwards.
However, it could just as easily be opposing the force of
your hand pulling on a hold. The force of friction, Fr,
is also shown in this image, but we'll get there.
Image from the
Wikipedia Commons
To begin our math, the equation for the force of
friction:
F=uN
Where u is the coefficient
of friction, and N is the normal
force. What this means for climbing is that the more
force you apply (in a direction perpendicular to the
surface of contact), the more friction you get!
Let's look again at u. We
call it the coefficient of friction, but what does
that really mean? Different surfaces have different
coefficients of friction. The greater value of u,
the more friction you get for a given normal force.
In other words, sticky surfaces have a large u
and slippery surfaces have a small u.
This explains why we "chalk up." Chalk increases the
coefficient of friction, giving us more friction and
therefore better grip. This also explains why the
bottom of climbing shoes are made out of rubber:
rubber has a high coefficient of friction (along with
other advantages).
I want to emphasize one last time that equation for
friction. It tells us that the friction is dependent
upon the NORMAL force, as in the force PERPENDICULAR
to the surface. If you apply a large force to hold in
a direction that is not perpendicular to the surface,
you're not doing yourself any favors. In fact, this
force will only pull you off of the hold.
Elasticity and Impulse:
We talk about elasticity for on major reason: ropes.
In order to truly understand the qualities and effects
of a dynamic rope, we have to touch on the impulse
momentum theorem. Momentum describes an
object's resistance to stop moving. Mathematically,
momentum (p) is defined as mass times
distance:
p=mv
We have another quantity to talk about, and that's
impulse. Impulse tells us about the effect of
a net force acting on an object. Mathematically,
impulse if equal to the average force an object
applies, multiplied by the time this force is applied
for:
J = FAVE
TDELTA
These two quantities can be related by the Impulse-Momentum
Theorem. This simply states that impulse changes
an objects momentum, and more specifically the value
of the change in the objects momentum is
equal to the impulse:
J = pDELTA
This tells tells us something important: no matter how
long we apply the force for, if the objects change in
momentum is always the same between cases, the impulse
is always the same between cases. Note that your total
change in momentum for a given fall will always be the
same, no matter the rope. You will have the same
momentum the moment before the rope becomes taut, and
you will have the same momentum once your are rest
(0). Therefore, the change in momentum will always be
the same.
So what does a dynamic rope do for us? It increases
the amount of time that the force is applied. Since
our impulse must remain the same across cases, the
average force must decrease. Not only does the average
force decrease, but so does the maximum force. In
other words, you feel force for a longer amount of
time, but it's not as strong of a force (we call this
the impact force in climbing).
In climbing, we measure the amount of stretch that
occurs (and therefore the increased time duration of
the force) as the dynamic elongation. We
climbers generally like a fairly high dynamic
elongation, as this makes the fall less painful or
prone to injury. However, dynamic elongation also
increases the distance that we fall. This can, of
course, be a bad thing, especially when you are close
to ground. The desired elongation of a rope depends a
lot on the task at hand.
The moral of the story:
Never climb with a static rope! A static rope has very
little elasticity, and it will hurt like all hell when
you fall. Pay attention to the dynamics (and statics)
of your ropes. Ropes are rated for a certain amount of
falls, make sure you look into this number and other
properties when buying ropes. Understand
the limitations of your gear, and keep it in good
maintenance. Your life is important. See the gearx
link in the resources for more information on ropes
(its worth it). I've also included a link to a life in
the vertical article on gear maintenance and
lifetimes. Be well read.