Basic Climbing and Safety
Safety
Let's start with safety. Of course, I'm not the first to
talk about this subject. In fact, I'm not even the first in
Professor Newman's Physics 211 to talk about it. So, for our
first source here, we'll use Samantha Davis, a student who
made her web project on "The Physics of Climbing Anchors" in
the Fall 2010 semester. Thanks Samantha!
There are two main types of climbing, top roping and lead
climbing. Top roping, perhaps the safest form of
climbing, involves climbing on a rope that is clipped or
looped at the top of the wall, and then comes down to a
belayer. In this method, you never fall far before your
belayer catches you, (assuming they're attentive) and always
have lots of line out to absorb any falls (see fall factor
coming up). Lead climbing on the other hand involves
clipping the rope into bolted anchors as you climb. In this
form of climbing, your clip is usually beneath you, as you
work towards the next clipping point. In this scenario, you
will fall twice as far as the amount of rope you have to the
clip below you. Worse yet, if you are close to your belayer,
you won't have much line out to absorb the fall.
Leaving Samantha for a moment, climbingtechniques.org
provides an excellent article on something called fall
factor. Fall factor is simple: it's the ratio of the
height of the fall to the amount of rope available to absorb
the fall, or mathematically:
Fall Factor = (Height of Fall)/(Length of Rope)
This is visualized in the image below, where h is the height
of the fall and L is length of the rope. Note that the case
on the left has a worse (larger) fall factor.
Image from Wikipedia Commons
The worst case scenario is known as a factor two fall.
This occurs when there are no clips or other gear between
the climber and the belayer. If the climber falls, they will
fall twice the distance as the length of the rope available
to absorb the fall. See the image below.
Image from
climbingtechniques.org
For more information on fall factor and how to reduce it,
check out South East's article "Understanding Fall Factors".
For information on safe anchor building and hundreds of
other valuable climbing tips, check out the climbing
techniques website. Both are linked in the Resources.
Climbing Ratings
Climbing routes are labeled by difficultly. There's a lot of
different systems for rating, mostly based on location.
Below is a table showing common rating systems.
Image credit: "Reporting climbing grades
and grouping categories for rock climbing." Draper, et al.
The rating is generally based on the most difficult move
in the route, along with the required endurance.
I've given various climbing tips throughout the rest of
the website, and I won't restate them all here. I actually
want you to read the rest of this, sorry to say. Read on.