The first step of surfing is catching a wave. This involves swimming out past the breaking point and waiting until the right wave comes into view. You propel your body and the board forward by pushing the water backward. Due to on the By using your board for buoyancy you can wait until the wave is close to begin your attack.
By paddling quickly in the direction of the wave you accelerate to a velocity similar to that of the wave. When you feel the force of the wave begin to lift you that signals the time for a quick burst of speed and a pop up.
You "Pop Up" by pushing up off the board, moving your center of mass toward the rear center of the board so that the tip of the board lifts up, and standing up.
