Just like most sport vehicles, and unlike automobiles, snowmachines are controlled mostly by the riders body. Sure you can techincally just sit still and turn the handlebars, but this only works at low speeds and in ideal conditions, and if you attempt to ride this way at faster speeds or in deep snow you will soon find yourself stuck or wrecked. As previously mentioned, the chassis of the snowmachine is normally oriented to accommodate the technique of the specific type of riding that particular snowmachine is designed for. A snowmachine designed for racing and trail riding will typically have a lower seat and handlebars so that the riders weight will be kept low to decrease wind resistance and keep the snwomachine firmly on two skis for better response in the turns. In deeper snow, where carving is essential for turning, you want a higher seat and handlebars to make it easier to transition between sitting and standing and also provide you with the range of lateral motion necessary to shift your weight and control the machine. Lets discuss the different riding techniques for different types of snowmachines.



Touring:
    Touring snowmachines are designed for luxury and convenience. They are used primarily on well-established trails at lower speeds and often have multiple seats and towing capabilities for work or for winter family picnics. Because touring snowmachines are so heavy and are designed for luxury over sporting capability, they are easy to ride in a comfortable sitting position and controlled primarily by the handlebars. If you do decide to cut loose and have a bit of fun at higher speeds, you may want to employ the more aggressive cornering techniques of trail/racing snowmachines.




Trail/Racing:
    Trail and racing snowmachines are similar to touring machines, but are designed for speed and performance over luxury and practicality. They typically have a lighter chassis and lower profile. When riding these at low speeds they can be handled the same way as touring machines, but once you start getting more aggressive you need to change your riding style. At high speeds, keep your weight low, preferably fully behind the windshield to minimize air resistance. When cornering at high speeds, keep your weight low and lean into the turn to keep as much weight over the inside ski as possible and prevent tipping. Smoothly and gradually turn the handlebars in the direction you want to turn. If you turn too sharp or too quickly or fail to keep your weight low and to the inside, you can easily loose control and flip the snowmachine.



Mountain/Deep Powder:
    And now we come to my personal favorite, the mountain machine. Mountain snowmachines are the most lightweight and designed for flotation and carving capability in deep snow. They are designed with a higher chassis, wider skis, and a longer track. When riding in deep powder, a standing position is preferable to sitting. Regular turning techniques are ineffective in deep snow, and carving technique must be applied. From a standing position, lean in the direction you want to turn and simultaneously turn the handlebars opposite the direction you want to turn. The snowmachine will tip to the inside of the turn but don't panic! This is the key element of carving. The farther the snowmachine tips, the tighter it will turn. Depending on the depth of the snow, the magnitude of tipping can be controlled by how far you turn the handlebars or by how far over you lean. It is not uncommon for more advanced riders to put their outside knee on the seat or even bring the outside leg to the inside of the snowmachine altogether.