Waves
are disturbances in the ocean that transmit energy
from one place to another. The type of wave most
of us are familiar with, are
the ones generated by wind moving across the
surface of the ocean. Energy that is generated by
the wind, is transferred to the surface of the
water through pressure and friction. The "harder"
the wind is blowing, the greater in size the waves
are going to grow.
Ripples in the water form first, then followed by slightly larger disturbances called chop. If the speed of the wind continues to increase, the size of the waves will increase as well. The maximum size a wave can reach is determined in part by, wind speed, the direction the wind is blowing from, and the surface area over which the wind is blowing. The picture on the left shows
the surface of the water where very little to no
wind is blowing, the surface is still with very
small ripples. The picture on the right shows a
surface where the wind is blowing at a high rate,
around 20 miles per hour, with gusts upwards of 30
miles per hour.
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