... science to help you climb safely

Lead Protection


Sport

When sport leading climbers clip one end of a quick draw into a bolt tha thas already been placed, and the other end into the rope.  These are often fairly sturdy, but all of the force of the fall is still applied to a single point, so it is important to use safe bolts and quick draws that are in good condition.
QuickDraws.jpg
Photo: Climber with quick draw rack
http://www.elpotrerochico.com/id6.html

Trad
Trad climbers set their own protection.  Trad gear varies by personal preference, and the type of rock it will be applied to.  When placing trad gear it is important to consider vector forces.  If you shift to the left will the change in force displace your nut?

Stopper Set Classic No. 5-11 Nuts
Camalot™Cams Wired Hexentric® Nut Set No. 4-10Hexes

Above photos:http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/protection