Lead Protection
Sport
When sport leading climbers
clip one end of a quick draw into a bolt tha thas already been placed,
and the other end into the rope. These are often fairly sturdy,
but all of the force of the fall is still applied to a single point, so
it is important to use safe bolts and quick draws that are in good
condition.
Photo: Climber with quick draw rack
http://www.elpotrerochico.com/id6.html
Trad
Trad climbers set their own protection. Trad gear varies by
personal preference, and the type of rock it will be applied to.
When placing trad gear it is important to consider vector forces.
If you shift to the left will the change in force displace your nut?
Nuts |
 Cams |
 Hexes |
Above photos:http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/protection