The Surf As the wave gets near, you quickly pivot your board in the same direction as the wave and paddle to match its speed. Your board forms an angle with the water, and this creates a dynamic pressure on the bottom of it, forcing you and your board out of the water to skim along the surface. At the same time, your increased forward momentum makes you more stable, allowing you to stand up and surf along the wave. Now you’ve caught the wave and are riding along its front face parallel to the shore line. Fins on the surfboard allow you to alter your speed and direction by repositioning your weight. Above you is the wave’s crest, where the water particles are undergoing their greatest acceleration. That forces them to move faster than the underlying waves, so they shoot ahead before falling under gravity’s influence. This forms the wave’s characteristic curls as they break along the shore.     https://letstalkscience.ca/educational-resources/stem-in-context/physics-surfing ttps://www.malibumakos.com/the-anatomy-of-a-wave-infographic/