Introduction & History
In surfing, like any other sport, physics is involved. Surfing is a great example of how buoyancy, weight, thrust, and drag work together to give surfers a perfect ride.
The design of a surfboard has changed significantly over the years. Before the 1920’s, surfboards were heavy and huge. They could weigh up to 100 lbs and could be up to 16 feet long! They used to be made of wood from redwood trees, which is not very water-resistant. They would soak in the water and become even heavier.
Since then, the boards have been through many revisions. Wooden surfboards were then made to have holes drilled in them, which were covered with wood veneer. This lightened them up a lot. Later models were improved by using balsa wood, which was much lighter (they were around 31 lbs). Fixed tail fins were then added to give the board stability as well as make it easier to steer. These fins made it possible to achieve the right balance of thrust and drag. In the 1950’s, people began manufacturing boards made of foam and fiberglass, making them the lightest and strongest they have even been.
These new materials were also more hydrodynamic. Hydrodynamics is the study of objects immersed in fluids, like a surfboard immersed in water. The shape of the surfboard and its fin change the way the water moves around it, and affect the ability of the surfer to control the board in the water. The different shapes of the bottom of the board will provide the surfer with a different type of ride. For example, a concave bottom gives for a smoother ride, and a v-shaped bottom allows for easy turning.
https://letstalkscience.ca/educational-resources/stem-in-context/physics-surfing
Fun Fact: Surfboard designers actually use a lot of the same principles as rocket science does! For example, the surfboard company “Varial Surf” was started by a former SpaceX engineer. Their surfboards are made from the same materials as rockets!
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