Fall Factors

Fall
                            Factor
(wikipedia.org)


The picture to the left shows a climber at different heights on the route.
The maximum amount of force he will feel is dependent only on the fall factor:  h/L.

Even though h is equal in both cases, as L (left) < L (right)
he will feel more force when he falls on the left than when he falls on the right.

The maximum fall factor in a system is not 1 but 2!
This happens if the climber falls below his belayer, as in the following case:

Fall Factor 2
(http://www.ukclimbing.com/)

To understand how this is implemented, we will look at different ropes elasticity.