Paddling and Catching the Wave


Finally we're gonna catch that perfect wave. A surfer must accelerate to the wave velocity using a combination fo paddling and graity. If the surfer doesn't reach the correct speed the wave will destroy him and cause pain or injury.

When using a long board, you have more flotation, mean you have to paddle harder to reach correct velocity, catch wave earlier, before it crest.

When using a short board, less flotation, lower paddling velocity, relay more on gratiy to reach correct velocity of the wave.