Wave Barrels
Sometimes the curl might completely enclose part of the wave, forming a moving tube of water known as the barrel. Because of irregularities in the seafloor and the swell itself, few barrels last as long as the legendary 27 sec ride off the coast of Namibia. But many who manage to “get barreled” have said they feel time passing differently inside, making it one of the most magical experiences a surfer can have. Of course, not all beaches are created equal. Offshore underwater canyons or rock formations, in certain locations like Nazare, Portugal or Mavericks, California, refract the incoming wave energy into a single spot, creating massive waves sought by surfers worldwide. Some of these waves travel for more than a week, with swells originating more than 10,000 km away from shore. Waves originating in California, may have originated in the stormy seas near New Zealand. Why you may not be thinking about weather patterns in the South Pacific, tectonic geology, or fluid mechanics, the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all of these things and more. And the waves that we surf created by wind are just one visible part of the continuous oscillation of energy that has shaped our universe since its very beginning.
https://www.surfholidays.com/blog/legendary-surf-spot-nazare-the-biggest-wave-ever-surfed
Is P-Pass the Ultimate Barrel for the Every Day Surfer? - Magicseaweed
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