The Board

Whether or not you realize it, as a surfer, you are a master of complicated physics. The science of surfing begins as soon as you and your board first hit the water. The board’s size and light construction help it to displace a lot of water. In turn, a buoyant force equal to the weight of the displaced water pushes up, counteracting you and your board’s weight. This allows you to stay afloat while you wait to paddle for a wave.


https://www.exploratorium.edu/theworld/surfing/physics/index.html