The
Importance of Ropes in Climbing:
Along with
carabiners, ropes also are a key part to climbing and
vary in different physical aspects depending on the type
of climb being approached. These physical differences
are everywhere from rope length to the stretchiness of
the rope.
Rope Construction and
Intended Use:
Since there are different
types of climbing, there are different types of rope. With
each type of climb being done, there comes many factors to
consider when obtaining the right rope. Any rope that is
sold from a licensed dealer is inspected by the
International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA).
Some of the more important and prevalent factors tested by
the UIAA include, but are not limited to: dynamic and static
elongation of the rope, the impact force rating of the rope,
and the number of falls the rope can withstand before
failing.
Factors explained:
- If the climber faces an increased fall factor (like
lead climbing), then the rope should be constructed with
more dynamic elongation so the rope absorbs
a higher percentage of the force due to impact when the
climber does fall. The UIAA rates this based on the amount
of stretch in the rope after the first test fall they
conduct.
- If the climber is attempting a top rope climb or
hauling gear, the preferred rope should have more static
elongation to it so there is less bounce in
the rope. The UIAA rates this based on the amount of
stretch in the rope when they attach a 176-lb. weight to
the end of the rope.
- The impact force rating of the rope is
how much force a falling object exerts on the rope. The
smaller the impact force rating, the less impact that is
exerted on the climber and the belayer which extends the
life of the rope and ensures a safer ascent. This is the
amount of force in kiloNewtons that is exerted on the rope
when the UIAA performs a fall test with an object at the
end of the rope.
- The UIAA performs fall tests on each rope. These fall
tests are done using much more force than what the typical
climber would exert during a climb. This ensures that the
number of falls the rope is able to
withstand before failing is greater than what the rope is
rated for.
How the UIAA evaluates energy
absorbtion in a rope:
Integrated from time zero to the
moment when the rope begins to stretch: