Fall Factor


  The fall factor provides an estimate of the relative forces that are generated in a fall. It is determined by dividing the length of the fall by the amount of rope from the belay.The greater the fall factor the greater the force of the fall.  

Fall Factor 2

Beal

The maximum fall force is 2. This occurs when a leader takes an unobstructed leader fall with no protection in place. It is important to remember that the belay anchor will have to absorb both the impact of the falling climber as well as the force exerted by the belayer in holding the fall.

 

Things to consider:

The leader determines the fall factor. To reduce the fall factor, place protection early and whenever the need and opportunity presents itself..

The fall factor is lower when the length of rope running from the belayer to the leader is relatively great. This is because a long length of rope stretches and absorbs more energy than a short length of rope.

Fall Factor 1

Beal

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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